Ok, it’s starting to make sense. Even though this part of Spain is divided between Spaniards and Basques, the locals refer to the Navarre Province as Basqueland (Pais Vasco) instead of Spain. The various guidebooks and signs all use some variation of the term “fiercely proud” which I think is actually code for “holds a grudge”.

What’s also dawning on me is just how early I’ll be out walking every day (I’ve been in denial). Headlamp on head, I was out on the path before 6:30am.  

About an hour’s walk later I came upon a sign – 

Yay! Cafe con leche time! 

I have been walking on and off since Orisson with a lovely group of folks — Canadians and Australians. We had planned to meet for coffee and they didn’t want me to miss the turn.

I met a couple of new people today and when I introduced myself they asked “are you Jan– Jan of the sign?” Yes.. I am Jan of the Sign!

The trail left the countryside and took us into the city of Pamplona. It’s a beautiful city and the old part, with its narrow, winding alleys full of small shops and restaurants and ornate architecture, seems like a small version of Barcelona’s. But only if you overlook the Plaza de Toros – the enormous bull ring right in middle of the square and the bull heads & bull statues everywhere. That sort of thing doesn’t fly anymore in Catalonia.

Staying tonight at a small German-run albergue. Efficient! Orderly! Spotless! And 8.50 euros includes breakfast.