I crossed into a new province — the great wine producing region of La Rioja. Vineyards now outnumber the canola fields and olive trees line much of the path. I have always wanted to see this region of Spain.

  

  

According to my guidebook, in La Rioja, “you will meet a friendly people who have been welcoming pilgrims since medieval times.” Sounds good to me. I should like to be welcomed by these fine, friendly folks. ¡Estoy aquí!

Advertisements for albergues and pilgrim-related services have started cropping up. Small stands selling fruit, trinkets, and cold drinks dot the path occasionally where it crosses roadways.

Some peregrinos complain about the “commercialization” of the Camino. But I don’t mind.

I am acutely aware that although I am walking an ancient path, that path lies smack in the middle of modern day Spain, with an unemployment rate of over 20% in some areas.

So I try to buy a piece of fruit or a fresh squeezed jugó de naranja whenever i can. Besides, I have no doubt that the medevial merchants advertised their services as well — “First-rate peregrino cloak mending!” 

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Just as I was getting a bit discouraged by all the Basque Separatist graffiti and signs “¡España es una ruina!” I came around the corner and found this guy

Staying tonight in Longroño. I walked for a bit today with a priest from England who told me that his order refers to the town as “Long Groan Oh” due to its distance from Los Arcos (29km). I have to agree.

But I did get to see these en route

 

  

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