In order to earn the Compostela, peregrinos must walk at least the last 100 km of the Camino. (The Santiago de Compostela Cathedral has been issuing these certificates of accomplishment since the Middle Ages.)
What this means for me is that I now have lots of company in my search for the sweet spot on the trail.

Many of the new peregrinos began their Caminos in Sarria and by now the other Camino routes have linked up with my route (the Frances route) including the Camino del Norte (Buen Camino Marisol!!) and the Vía de la Plata.
What this also means is that now the Camino more closely resembles a rolling party rather than a rolling boot camp. Shops selling Camino souvenirs have appeared and the cafes and bars have long lines and loud music.


So many new faces! After a month on the trail it’s somewhat of a shock.

The upside to all these new people is that there are now more options for places to stay at night. Lots of pensións, inns and small hotels.
It’s been fun staying at so many different kinds of places. The albergues are easy, social and cheap. But the albergues are co-ed and one of my many surprises was that the bathrooms are co-ed too (individual stalls for showers and toilets of course).
So this means I’ve gotten used to brushing my teeth next to men of various ages in various states of undress — ok, in their underwear. (The women don’t seem to feel the same need to do this.)
Yes, we are a Camino family but what about MY EYES??
And I feel I can now say with some authority that North American men need to up their underwear game. The European men’s underwear looks like colorful bike shorts and jerseys. The North American men’s looks like, well …underwear. Bleh.
So an option for my own little room — me gusta!





I will be so glad when you are home, Jan, to talk to you in person, but I am really going to miss your wonderfuls comments & pictures. What a delight!!
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Loved all the pictures and the idea of learning a few words in the languages of the people you meet . Nick and I once got up to 17 different languages for saying it’s ” so so ” . Japanese it’s “ma ma “,Tagalog is “tika tika ” . How about Spanish ? And one last language thought , in German there is a word ” gemütlichkeit , that is very similar to the Dutch word your friends shared. Keep on trucking !
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I’m feeling a little sad to see your journey coming to an end… I can’t even imagine how complex it must feel like for you! Can’t wait to hear the stories in person, and glad we have a long summer to enjoy the detailed version of every one of them. Thanks again for sharing this with the rest of us 🙂
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It’s been great camino with you. Thanks for the vicarious adventure!
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